Victorian Bridal

Victorian Bridal, the beautiful layers of lace matched with ruffles spilling over the lucky brides delicate body. The era was full of wanted romance in art and also literature; this changed peoples thinking. A more open minded population of imaginative ideas and even creatures surfaced.

Victoria's Wedding Dress 1840

"Queen Victoria’s dress was of rich white satin, trimmed with orange flower blossoms. The headdress was a wreath of orange flower blossoms, and over this a beautiful veil of Honiton lace, worn down."

       http://www.queenvictoria.victoriana.com/RoyalWeddings/Queen-Victoria-Wedding.html

Victoria's wedding to Prince Albert took place on the 10th of February, 1840, in the royal chapel of St. James, London. Her dress itself is gorgeous the rich colouring from the satin that almost looks like a duck egg colour because its so shiny we do know though that it was in fact white, the material is clearly satin; a luxurious and precious material. The dress was clearly thought about, a new marriage, in the season where life begins again after a cold winter.

The choice of a white wedding dress at that age was actually unusual as coloured victorian dresses were more usual; Queen Victoria is actually credited as starting the craze of wearing white to a wedding though the idea of wearing white was in fact known though only within the wealthy nobility field as white was a wealthy colour. and no there wasn't bleach.

Victoria's dress is especially famous at the time and now because of the Honiton lace that she decided to have on her dress, exactly delicate honiton lace is one of the finest laces to have but with it bobbin lac designed usually in a floral pattern the finished result is very pretty. The lace industry at the time was at a bust; back a few hundred years before the lace market was huge especially when it first hit England of course at the time the lace was hand made but when technology moved on and machines started making the lace there was a decline in the market. i.e a huge loss in jobs. Victoria deciding to wear huge piece of this lace on her wedding dress was huge. why? because she was QUEEN. The queen was the person that all women was idolised by; she was powerful, the leader of the empire. Of course after Victoria wore the piece the busy went back into over drive.

Victoria's actual wedding dress

                         http://www.confetti.co.uk/inspiration/bridal-veils-through-the-decades/

Bridal Hair

Victorian Ladies tended to wear accessories in the hair, flowers were popular for bridal hair

https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-hairstyles/

https://threadingthroughtime.wordpress.com/2013/10/04/the-late-victorian-bridal-trousseau/

Not looking particularly happy on her special day but this photo is perfect for showing what was popular with bridal hair, a clean centre parting that was pinned back and I'm sure curled with a long veil that is split from the front of the hair with a gorgeous floral crown that is striking and like a beautiful crown on her head. This style is slightly later in the 1800's 

The V&A

How perfect the V & A are currently running a wedding dress exhibition from the periods of 1775-2014 and it ends on the 15th MARCH!! why did I not know about this earlier. The V & A is a gorgeous museum full of so many precious items. The whole idea of the exhibition is tracing the idea that is our modern day white dress back through different eras.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/wedding-dress-1775-2014/wedding-dress-1775-2014-about-the-exhibition/

     

So interesting 

Hair ageing

Hair ageing, Everyone knows when you get to a certain age the hair follicles of our once brunette or whatever shade we were of hair begins to turn into a spectrum of shades from grey to white. Of course many people carry on dying their hair but I must say I'm a fan of the salt and pepper look.

Everyone is different, but the ageing of hair can also effect the texture and how much hair is left on your head; just look at many men with bald spots. Of course a bald older lady is more unusual because women have a less likely chance to thin.

For me now if it didn't ruin my hair I'd happily turn it grey, it looks lovely.

This model still looks amazing, the article in the link is really factual and helpful

                   http://www.philipkingsley.co.uk/hair-guide/hair-concerns/your-hair-as-you-age/

Miss Havisham 

Illustration by Harry Furniss

http://www.allposters.com/-sp/Miss-Havisham-Illustration-from-Great-Expectations-Posters_i6235760_.htm

Of course Miss Havisham is older in the book she is described as having white hair, not only have the twenty years of a repressed existence have caused some mental issues but Miss Havisham would of aged, from the abuse her body has been given we can presume she hasn't aged that gracefully. All the television and film versions of Miss Havisham are of an ageing women, her hair is either white much like the Great Expectations 2011 version with Gillian Anderson or with a mixture of salt and pepper style like Helen Bonham Carter in the 2012 version

Now with my Model I have looked at how to age her hair, even if subtle the hair would look best most with its full colour, in Ky's case this means ageing her very dark brown afro hair which will be curled tightly. 

In class we used our Supra Color by Kryolan using white and black shades with a mascara want through the hair, this exercise was fun because its always fun making your class mates look older; the colour itself being a creamy texture took easily to the hair and was easy to blend on the website the colours are also said to be metallic pigment free which obviously is good for me ageing the hair as then it will look more realistic. For the hair ageing I also looked into powdering the hair with just white powder as the entire project at uni is about continuity it would be easier to achieve the second assessment around as it is easier to evenly dispense upon the hair. 

https://uk.kryolan.com/product/supracolor-interferenz-palette-12-colors

http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/154/372/Products/Eyes/Shadow/Pigment/index.tmpl

The Pre-Rafelites

Now I'm sure many of us have watch the BBC's take on the Pre-Rafelitie brotherhood artists 'Desperate Romantics' which sadly only had one season?? Anyway of course the show was a loosely accurate version of the Pre-Rafelitie brother hood though will only four not the actual factual seven. Though Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Willian Holman Hunt & John Everett Millais were the original three founders of the brotherhood. Check it out if you have no idea who the Pre-Rafelites are and you can't be bothered to read about them

For me the Pre-Raphaelite art is legendary, the way the artists has painted their works such as their romantic female models to almost surreal scenes with animals in a colourful backdrop. Each to their own realistically these men were a brotherhood yet there art was their own and they had their own unique and independent way of working, almost like a signature the works and individuality is clear when looking at their separate works.

For me my favourite pieces from the brotherhood are the beautiful portrayals of women the paintings are dramatic and sparks a feeling from the audience. Who are these women? whats happened to them?

The original three member of the brotherhood are notably a unique brotherhood in their day with a group of talented and young artists who started the movement to oppose the big dogs that were the Royal Academy, a group set to defy popular genre paintings. The works were inspired by literature and nature

Just look at ........

Ophelia 1851-1852

Quite possibly one of my favourite paintings. Ophelia the character originally in Williams Shakespeare's Hamlet the beauty who is destined for tragedy (she drowns)

The painting by John Everette Millais has been taken from the words Shakespeare has written, the beautiful women that looks like she could simply be relaxing, the romantic stance/feel of the painting is clear; the greenery that is only separated because of her Lacey dress. The flowers that reach up to her hands and chest area. The paleness of her skin that was also symbolised with beauty in the era.
Elizabeth Siddal the model for the painting and wife of fellow brother Dante Gabriel Rossetti actually died very young though her death was never proved to be suicide as at the time suicide was illegal and meant she wouldn't be given a christian burial. very tragic

I could also say my mother has actually touched this painting after having far to much to drink at a gallery party in the 90's. 

Proserpine 1874

Another beauty painted this time by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, the painting itself was actually inspired by Greek and Roman mythology the character of Proserpine is a Goddess; the story basically follows the goddess who has to live in the underworld with her Husband Hades (god of the underworld), the character is repressed and in love with another man...... Interestingly enough the model of the painting was Jane Morris the wife of fellow brotherhood member William Morris. Jane herself was actually having a affair with the painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti for many years, the painting reveals Janes torment over being torn between her husband and the father of her children and her lover.

"The figure represents Proserpine as Empress of Hades. After she was conveyed by Pluto to his realm, and became his bride, her mother Ceres importuned Jupiter for her return to earth, and he was prevailed on to consent to this, provided only she has not partaken of ant of the fruits of Hades. It was found, however, that she had eaten one grain of a pomegranate, and this enchained her to her new emptire and destiny, she is represented in a gloomy corridor of her palace, with the fatal fruit in her hand. As she passes, a gleam strikes on the wall behind her form some inlet suddenly opened, and admitting for a moment the light of the upper world; and she glances furtively towards it, immersed in the thought"

                     W. Sharp, Dante Gabriel Rossetti: A record and study, London 1882, p236

 http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/rossetti-proserpine-n05064/text-summary

A real tragedy in love

The awakening conscience 1853

The painting is by William Holman Hunt yet again the model was someone close to him his girlfriend Annie Miller.

Looking at the scene it looks like what? is it happy at first I thought it was a amused couple relaxing on some spring afternoon. But wait the name? "The awakening Conscience" hold on a minute that sounds like theres more in-depth with this piece, unlike the others the story isn't taken from another, the picture is full of fine details that are only noticed once inspected. The cat playing with the bird under the table? the girls clothing the off white soiled dress? who is she? are they a couple?

looking on the Tate Londons website I learnt the painting was actually subtly hinting prostitution, apparently the mirror with her reflection represents lost innocence but theres a glance of redemption with the light of the outside in the mirror. Her stance? has she had some revelation? 

I enjoy paintings like this they hold the story they don't need to be based on anything because they already reveal so much.

The brotherhood were unique and young, full of talents and life as it awaited them, Though the paintings will last and be in our histories forever theres a element of sadness when looking into the artists and the people involved with them's storys, young deaths, drug use, these romantics had written tragedies.

The brotherhood of the Pre-Raphelites of course formed more members and had a second generation of painters. Many of the works are now held at the Tate Britain in London

The pictures above are from the Tate Britain's website

                       http://www.tate.org.uk/learn/online-resources/glossary/p/pre-raphaelite

Manchester Gothic Library

Recently over the Valentines weekend me and my boyfriend took a weekend away up to Manchester, I've been there a number of times because my sister went to Salford for university. Now without being dramatic Manchester is by far one of my favourite cities I've ever visited. 

Whilst have a stroll around central I noticed this glorious building. After some research I found out the building is in fact a library and part of the university of Manchester. The library is called the John Rylands library is a late Victorian neo-gothic build and founded by a the window of John Rylands. The library has been open since the first of January 1900 the building took ten years to complete.

John Rylands was Manchesters first ever Multi-millonaire to live in the city, he was the main man when it came to textile manufacturing in the UK in Victorian Britain

Images are my own

A really interest website all about the building itself and its contents is.....

http://www.library.manchester.ac.uk/rylands/ourhistory/

Just look at those gothic arches.... swoon 

Hair Inspirations

Ky my model naturally has brown afro hair that is mid length, for the Miss Havisham hair though we've discussed using a wig and incorporating it into the hair. I've had the idea to basically tightly curl all of Ky's hair to add volume within also adding in the Victorian field. The hair will then be styled messily as my Miss Havisham. Think Helen Bonham Carter in the 2012 Great Expectations

Boham Carter as Miss Havisham in Great expectations in  2012

I love how the Makeup & stylists have also aged the hair with the salt and pepper type colouring. 

The hair is big and has been curled and brushed out; notice the hair still has structure round the front of the face, the curls aren't as brushed out and 'crazy'

Ky with the wig incorporated in her own hair, wowza I love it

The hair will be in the style of an updo which will be loosely style with a number of strands out of place. 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/422845852485681140/

Now these ideas are slightly more Edwardian due to being part of the 'Gibson Girl' movement but I can take inspiration from the messiness of the updo and the fact thats been so much volume created by the pinning.  Its so interesting how different styles happened. This style came about around 1890's. 

Miss Havisham inspired look

In class we have been learning makeup which entails such things like bruising and ageing. Of course for our Gothic Horror theme term this would be perfect not only for what the creations of characters but also Miss Havisham. Part of the brief for us first years at Solent is recreating a Miss Havisham and Estella look that fits in with the portrayals throughout film and television. Later on in the project we will look at a more fashion based inspiration of the characters. Right now we are mastering the art of continuity..... i.e. when you watch a film and the hairs one side one shot and in the next on the other BAD CONTINUITY.

For my Miss Havisham look on a face chart I started to research and look into the way her skin would be affected by its twenty years of abuse. Not going out for twenty years would deeply effect not only the essential victims the skin needs but also its colour. Her teeth would be rotten and she would be disgustingly dirty due to the lack of hygiene. Her skin also would be dry and blotchy because of dehydration and the fact she must sweat in that dress the makeup on her wedding day has long been sweated off and added to her pores.

In class we tired out my look with a partner doing my makeup for the lesson using my face chart as inspiration.

Oh haha a true beauty I have become. This look is extremely sleep deprived. The use of eyelash glue on my lips also worked really well.

As part of my time on my partner I decided instead of focusing on her face to look creating a burnt/aged hand maybe like one Miss Havisham would have very close to her untimely death.

Testing out the Face Chart look further 

As a extra practice and understanding of my own creation I decided to do it on myself, this time I made the look more dramatic then my partner did and added the effect of severe lack of looking after herself.

The original face chart design, I mainly focused on the ageing in this design.

This experiment was a lot of fun, I starting looking into how to create a peeled skin like effect on myself. I think the look to someones eyes is dramatic but when you realise how much the character of Miss Havisham actually took on as a tole to her body was dramatic, even though it spanned over twenty years. I think I look quite terrifying 

I look at padding the face out slightly due to the ageing process usually meaning that the lips became slightly thinner. I also thought about the fact that this lady had spend the past twenty years doing not much, maybe her face would plump up? not only from age but from her lack of activeness. 

As you can tell from my expressions I enjoy going into character ha. I'll probably regret putting this one one but hey ho. Its just a shame the tissue was revealed in my mouth, Miss Havisham madness.

Actors who have portrayed Miss Havisham in film

Gillian Anderson 2011

Perhaps my favourite Miss Havisham so far of the actors who have portrayed her. Oh Gillian you talent not only is her role of Miss Havisham one that I can visioned whilst reading the book over the christmas holidays but there are extreme accurate details within her costume and makeup much like her chapped lips full of scabs and dead skin much like Miss Havisham would have, think of how dehydrated her body would be, how deprived from its natural needs it would be. Sun light, Food, water, cleanliness.

Gillian Anderson played the role for the BBC's Great Expectations in 2011 a year before the hollywood version came out with Helen Bonham Carter; I'd still say I preferred watching the BBC version, theres something about classic's like Charles Dickins Great Expectations that can't be stretched into a 100 minute time frame. watch each and judge which you favour. 

                                                              Helena Bonham Carter 2012

Helena Bonham Carter played the role of Miss Havisham for the Great Expectations movie that was realised in 2012. The role fit Bonham Carter perfectly as she suits darker roles with twisted story just look at her amazing work with Ex-partner Tim Burton. The costuming for Miss Havisham is gorgeous the designers have gone all out for this with the dramatic veil and layers upon layers of underskirt on the gown. The salt and pepper raging effect on the hair also gives a edgy twist to the character. Maybe more convincingly then the Gillian Anderson with the hair as its huge and ruined compared to what it was 20 years previously.

                                                                  Charlotte Rampling 1999

Charlotte rampling Played Miss Havisham in a tv movie version of the classic, I haven't seen this version but after research must say a young Ioan Gruffudd as Pip sound interesting. The movie even won a few awards so much be worth a watch.

Martita Hunt 1946

I love this classic version of Great Expectations, even though the whole features in black and white the costuming and make up works perfectly. Martita Hunt plays a really inspiring and well played Miss Havisham, she is extremely cunning even though its quite evident she's had a break down she is also a clear manipulator. 

I also love the fact you can watch this version on youtube. ENJOY

Madame Rachel the Notorious Beautician

I was recently reading a story written for the daily mail about Victorian beauty ideals and the interesting character of Madame Rachel. the article initially brings up the idea of how us in our current era will put makeup on from a pubescent age whilst only 150 years ago women that wore makeup obviously were whores or actresses? I wonder if we were on a night out and were transported back to 1840 what an up raw would created. Its a strange comparison from our last project of The Elizabethans who would literally cake lead and white vinegar onto their faces for 'Beauty'

The story thought then takes a darker turn about Victorian women that were older trying to stay younger much like we all try to now with plastic surgerys but with a con artist who became extremely popular in Victorian Britain with wealthy women wanting to stay young. Of course as a con artist Rachel; name was actually Sarah Rachel Russell but madame Rachel was taken from Mademoiselle Rachel a famous French actress from the era. The character that this con artist envisioned and played out to her unsuspecting buyers was one of trust instead though she would sell them products that would promise them ever lasting youth; once the products she was selling became more and more popular and sort after from dim upper class ladies her prices sky rocketed. Not only was Madame Rachel selling ridiculous products such as her magnetic rock water dew from the 'Sahara Desert' this off course later on turned out to be a mixture of just water and bran; but Madame Rachel was also a black mailer and involved with prostitution. She caused sandals upon her arrest after revelations not only from her con of a beauty store but also the fact she had been tricking wealthy older customers into falling in love with letters she had written herself. Of course we must ask ourselves who on earth would fall for such tricks; but it seemed people spent fortunes on hopes of ever lasting youth of course though if it hadn't worked the first time who knows what these women were thinking. Being a con artist Madame Rachel was clever in picking her victims she always aimed at aging upper classed women. Clearly feeling delicate with there looks.

READ THE FULL ARTICLE HERE 
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/books/article-1305730/The-ugly-face-Victorian-beauty-BEAUTIFUL-FOR-EVER-BY-HELEN-RAPPAPORT.html

The article is based on the book by Helen Rapport who has researched in the 'Madame Rachel' story
Amazon wishlist has a new member.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Beautiful-For-Ever-Cosmetician-Blackmailer/dp/0099570130

The Victorian custom of Hairwork - Mourning jewellery

A gold brooch, extremely detailed fashioned into a feather like finish

                                            http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/6958348

Now I had never heard of this custom until this project; I actually stumbled upon it whilst researching old Victorian photographs for hair. Yes its a real thing; theres something much like the post-mortem photos that is almost 'creepy' or even deeply sad about the art yet when actually seen the amount of work and dedication that have gone into these mementos for the family of the deiced (was extremely common) or person is inspiring. For many of the brooches that I researched much like the one above the amount of details that have gone into the perfect little thing is impressive. The fact you can see all the different shadings in the one person hair brooches of the actual person that the brooch is dedicated to is interesting too.

Hairwork is a craft that can be intertwined within jewellery such as brooches or pendants; the hair was usually given to the craftsmen of a hair jewellery workshop to create a sentimental creation for a deiced family member. Though sometimes buyers would just pay a poor person for some hair as they wanted it as a fashionable accessory though this was less common due to people wanting it for their special interests from family, with the hair being brought in and not dedicated to someone sometimes meant that the hair was from a few different people so were different shades to add to the patterning. Like autographs are fans today people also desired to wear the hair of famous people dead or alive

Some harrow pieces were displayed not as jewellery but within photo frames for display purposes.
The final result for many produced were delicate items that were uniquely special to each client.

The weaths were created using a thin wire to create a shape or frame, then the rest would be created by looping the hair into the structure.


Hairwork maybe unusual though why? when we have little children its not unusual to cut a lock of their hair and keep it in a locket. We were human hair extensions onto out own hair the whereabouts of the owner we have no clue yet we still stick/glue/clip the hair onto our heads. This is a sentimental and beauty heirloom that descendants can keep forever.

A Hairwork wealth in a frame

                             http://www.victoriangothic.org/the-lost-art-of-sentimental-hairwork/

Extremely gothic with the black enamel against the blonde plaiting

                            http://www.corvusnoir.com/blog/2011/08/victorian-hair-jewelry.html

Victorian Hair

A great montage of Popular hairstyles raging from the 1850's to the 1880's

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/297519119104362430/

Hair

In class I was surprised to hear about Victorian hair for I had always known from period dramas about the beauty accessorises such as roses or bows in the ladies hair to add a sense of style or class much like the Elizabethan Era with the pearls and jewels ladies still enjoyed accessorising their hair.

I was surprised however to learn about the extent of hair pieces Victorian ladies would wear. Extremely detailed pieces of hair woman would clip onto their own hair to create updo's and whatever took their fancy. Of course when I actually thought more into this revelation I realised how silly it was; Elizabethan woman would wear full wigs everyday for their desired looks. Modern day we were hair to volumise or whatever just like Victorian women. Hair was curled and pinned in a attractive fashion either in a up do or with a mixture; middle partings were also extremely common for women to have.

For me when I watch period drama much like Pride and Prejudice 1995 with Colin Firth (All time favourite version) or Emma 2009 with Romola Garai I can't help but love not only the costuming but the hair; in a word to describe it I would say 'Pretty' but like most young Victorian women of a higher class pretty was exactly what they strived for as the doll innocent look was all the range.

Absolutely Gorgeous

http://thegraphicsfairy.com/old-photo-captivating-victorian-beauty/

The use of flowers and bows in ones curled hair made not only a innocent look but a romantic one.  

     

Where is Mr. Darcy these days?

Victorian Beauty

Victorian Beauty the era for me is one of my favourites not only from the books that have inspired generation after generation but the films that have improved our imaginative minds into a era of shadowy city streets full of danger to beautiful stately house soon to be filled with romance and longing. Class's were a extremely big thing back with working and life styles all being rooted by who your family were.

Victorian beauty? I see the photo above and think of this gorgeous young woman with bare skin and long curly hair. sensual and luminous this woman in Victorian times would of been seen as beautiful a heroine almost. I can imagine this girl posing at her parents country house before a summers day filled with activities, young and innocent.

After reading a few articles on the subject of what Victorian Beauty really consisted of I noticed the authors running pattern of MAKEUP = PROSTITUTE. Of course if this was now most of us women would be under that category. Makeup was to look natural, a women was to be a 'delicate' creature.

A victorian Beauty 

http://www.playbuzz.com/charlotteb11/would-you-survive-the-victorian-era

Theres even a quiz "Would you survive the Victorian Era" where I found the image above

Skin was still seen as showing class so many woman would stay out the sun as it showed a lower class due to out doors work much like the Elizabethan times. Cheeks would be coloured using a mixture of dyes much like red beet juice or carmine.

Some women would go over board and even put drops of belladonna into their eyes to create a doll like effect (also clouded vision over time) they also put lemon and orange drop into their eyes as a alternative. Now to those who don't know what belladonna is it also comes under the name of DEADLY NIGHTSHADE. which is a completely mental thing to put into your eyes not only is the name a hint but the fact its also extremely toxic.

A brilliant article that gives a diverse and large factual understanding of Victorian Beauty is one I found whilst researching 

http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735

The Victorian post-mortem photo

For me now I find these photo's distasteful and extremely sad the way the person has been positioned some with there eyes open is almost creepy. The photographer and family have clearly wanted the model to see alive again in there final photo but theres something even without knowing the model was in fact deceased wrong with the actual photo. Theres no glow of life or response within the eyes; when modelled with a family member the contrast between life and death is extremely obviously. Post-mortem photos were expensive and see as extremely respectful within the family themselves of the passed, in a way you have families now that keep their loved ones at their house for a couple of days before their funeral but even to me that is a unusual process, I guess in the wealthy Victorians eyes this was there goodbye to that person so they could have that family photo or whatever together in the moment. Looking through the photos you can't help notice that yes most are young children. Of course over a hundred years ago the health system wasn't what it is today and illness was more serious, much like the flu or the common cold to a young child with a weaker immune system they didn't really have a chance unless of course were wealthy enough to have warm clothes and hot meals everyday. Victorian London had a major over crowding problem so a lot of poor mothers would find themselves in damp crowded housing with their babies; many would die from the lack of food to even tuberculosis. Rich people obviously had it better but still many would die due to the lack of medical knowledge.

Can you tell in the photos with siblings which sibling is actually dead?
As our project of gothic horror in Victorian ages I can't help that theres something horrific about this practice. And of course extremely upsetting.

All photos have been sourced from Pinterest

I'm glad this isn't a popular custom nowadays 

Pinterest.com